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 Comments and pictures by Kasia Janota: 

Kilimanjaro was one of my dreams. Although I have climbed many mountains, I have always thought that Kilimanjaro is exceptional: the tallest mountain in Africa the continent of space and magnitude, the mountain written about and admired from below by many writers and tourists, an extinct volcano, a place of glaciers, a distant and desolate place above clouds, a different planet. 

In retrospective, I consider Kilimanjaro was the jewel of the whole trip across Africa, and would recommend climbing the mountain to anyone. 

I miss Kilimanjaro.

 The climb was horrific.  We started at around 12 midnight and reached the top after 7 am.  Ben and I climbed in small steps.  Each step was well-measured in precious energy units.  No sliding or falling back allowed.  The path was very narrow; I could not see it myself and just followed Ben.  Initially it was dirt and rocks, later just rocks, and near the top snow and ice.  We used flashlight because it was dark and uneven.  Sticks that I usually do not use turned out were very helpful to avoid sliding back. We did not talk. There was no single soul of any kind.  No animals or people.  Air was pure and sharp and freezing.  I was scared and sometimes thought what the hell I was doing here in the place where one stupid mistake might cost life.

Below surrounding plains stretched in total silence.  The wind and cold was getting worse while gaining in altitude. Although every part of body was covered with warm clothes except for small spaces left for eyes, I was freezing.  My face was covered with some sort of masque of sweat and saliva.  My nose was running but it was frozen and hurt too much to touch it so I let it run. I was glad nobody was there to see me and to take pictures.  At one point I thought this is it. I will not make it.  Thanks to Ben who cheered me up and said: “only 200 m more”…. And I thought “Yeah!!! 100 m here is 1000 there” and continued to climb this time using hands and legs.

  The first breathtaking discovery was the sunrise that did not bring desired warmth but beauty of pinks, yellows and reds. Sun slid out of the neighboring mountain and ejected a stream of light and finally life.  I felt more welcomed with the sun’s presence.

The second breathtaking discovery was the Stella point. When I reached it, I looked around for some sort of celebration, people drinking champagne snacking on shrimps with guacamole.  Instead, I saw a huge silent crater, frozen in time.  Rocky foundations filled characteristic valley like bottom.  Icy snow covered most of the crater.  Rim jaggedness showed ancient eruptions.  Then Ben said “This is not the top” and I screamed “What????” Ben said “ This is just Stella Point, the top is over there”.  I followed his hand pointing to Uhuru Peak and figured that another 200 m will be my another 20000 steps. The highest point of Kilimanjaro was on the other side of crater so we had to walk along the path made by previous visitors. It was time for my first and last power bar.

The third breathtaking discovery were glaciers (Arrow Glacier).  We saw them on the left as we walked towards Uhuru Peak.  Huge mountains of ice and snow, the masterpiece of sculpture by wind and sun that was accomplished over ages.  On the way, we passed in silence three other lost souls; one guide and two women, one of whom walked stiffly as a robot and later I found out she suffered severe hypothermia. 

When I reached Uhuru Peak, I stood supporting  myself on the two sticks and admired the place.  My body suffered tremendously. I felt drained completely out of energy and I was dizzy. I saw a sign made out of few pieces of wood informing me that this was the highest point in Africa.  I looked around and saw Ben dancing.  He yelled: “Come on Kasia! Dance! You reached the top!”

And I smiled and stood there paralyzed by fatigue and hypnotized by silence and the beauty of Kili.  I saw clouds below covering plains and all forms of life.  By that time (8 am), only two colors dominated the landscape: white and blue.  "Soft clouds and illuminating glaciers in sunlight below, and above me blue sky, incredibly clear and pure".  After taking few pictures, it was time to descend.  As I was passing Stella Point, I saw an airplane and waive as kids do at passing trains.  I was completely exhausted yet completely happy.  And I thought of Albert Camus’ words : “I have always impression that I had been living on the high wave, menaced, overwhelmed with powerful happiness”

I want to dedicate this trip to my Mom, who even though thought that I was completely insane to climb Kili, gave me all support to realize my dream: “Be on my own and above the clouds”.

Acknowledgments:

 I would like to thank Tomek Hilsberg, for putting up with my moods during the whole trip, if not his special glasses and sticks I would have never reached the top and I would like to thank Ben for his last words of support near the 100 m spot away from Stella Point. 

If you have any questions or comments, feel free to contact me at kasiajanota@hotmail.com.
For more info check www.kasiajanota.com

Kasia Janota - the tough woman